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>> WHY OMAN? - DIARY

the mountains

the mosques

Well, definitely not for the cyclone that ripped through the place on the day we were supposed to be arriving, that's for sure! Our decision to visit Oman for a couple of months was based initially on the single fact that it borders Dubai. On further investigation, however, there seemed so many other reasons to visit this fascinating country that to stay any longer in Asia seemed to be taking the easy option, so to speak, rather than venturing into the unknown.

Oman is perched on the tip of the Arabian Peninsula (go on, have a look in your old atlas - it's a bigger country than you might think) and is ruled over by His Majesty Sultan Qaboos bin Saeed, whose serenely-beaming face projects down from portraits in every shop. He is a patron of the arts (the ROSO - Royal Oman Symphony Orchestra - was established at his whim in 1985, even though there was, at that time, no classical music tuition in the country, let alone enough western-style classical musicians to make up an orchestra) and a great deal more moderate than his father before him. The previous Sultan banned foreigners, education, shops and (god knows why) hospitals during his three-decade tenure at the top.

The tourist industry is growing steadily, and is becoming more and more attractive to those for whom the comparatively unspoilt and laid-back Oman is a more pleasing alternative to the glitz and glamour of nearby Dubai. It boasts some 2000 kilometres of largely untouched and deserted coastline, including some of the most significant turtle nesting areas on the planet. Not sure if we're going to have time to see any ourselves, since we're going to be based almost exclusively in the capital city, but you never know.

Musically, of course, there is a huge traditional music legacy, as with all Middle Eastern countries. The Muscat Oud Festival, held from November 29th to December 1st 2005, was the first of its kind worldwide. For the first time in history, this festival featured on one stage the whole Arabic world's today's most admired players of the oud, the Arab lute, which has been the symbol of Arabic music since ancient times.

There are of course several western bands playing covers at the major hotel bars, but I'm not really interested in hearing something I've heard before, so it's the local music and musicians that I'm especially keen to encounter, if I am able to gain access to them.