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bob, john and ganbat
students at music college
late-night mealody
bari sax player in military band
my souvenir giant steppes ger
robin, hannah, deb, john
river sounds music club
haluun elgen nutag
lotus centre visit
lotus children
tv cameras on andrew at strings
northern lights at mealody
the giant steppes jazz mobile
ger camp at terelj
bob bellows, jazz ambassador
the giant steppes 2006 gang
duo at le bistro francais
andrew's khoomei on tv
jigme in relaxed mood
What a great way to kick off the Giant Steppes International Jazz Festival 2006 – a performance and mini-workshop at the Music & Dance College. The event was well attended by students from the college and the reception was warm and appreciative. It was also my first opportunity to hear the Northern Lights Quartet from Calgary, Canada. These guys work so well together. The ease with which they interact is clearly the result of years of performance as a unit. The students in attendance could not have asked for a better demonstration of how to perform in a small band situation.
My band, the Steve Tromans UBop Band, also got the chance to play for the students, and we thoroughly enjoyed it. After so many performances at Mealody Restaurant for the extremely successful Jazz Club every Friday, it was nice to play in a different venue with a different acoustic and a well-maintained grand piano. Ganbat and Andrew sounded great and the performance was tight and energetic. It was a good omen for the gigs to come.
That evening we took part in the first of the Mealody Jam Sessions that were scheduled to happen every night of the festival, providing an ‘after hours’-style hangout for the musicians and dedicated Jazz lovers with the energy for a late-night set or two. This was an idea suggested by Debra Rasmussen a few months before the festival, and it has worked extremely well, not least for enabling members of the NLQ and the UBop Band to jam together in different configurations, and allowing Ganbat to play piano rather than drums, which he doesn’t get much opportunity to do very often.
Wed October 4th 2006
The day began with a meeting at the Ministry of Education, Culture and Science, where we met the Director of Culture and Art, Batmunkh. I have met this incredibly friendly and helpful man before, at the Santis Jazz Club at Mealody Restaurant, and it is amazing to have such direct contact with important figures like Batmunkh, due, in no small way, to the size of Ganbat’s network of friends.
At around midday, after a brief visit to the offices of the Arts Council of Mongolia (an incredibly pro-active NGO doing amazing work with limited – by UK standards – resources, and who are the reason I met Ganbat and the Giant Steppes of Jazz NGO in the first instance), we are whisked off to the studios of TV25 for a Press Conference (my first). I am asked to talk about the UB Jazz Academy and, trying to ignore a few butterflies, explain our plans to help nurture Mongolian Jazz talent at what will be the country’s first-ever music academy dedicated solely to the theory and practice of Jazz. One of the many aims of this festival is to raise public awareness of the Mongolian musicians that are already playing Jazz, and to encourage other Mongolian musicians to study this music denied them during the years of socialism.
In the evening, the Grand Khaan Irish Pub provided the venue for two sets of Jazz from the NLQ and the UBop Band, with Bob Bellows bringing events to a close in his own inimitable way. Bob is a born entertainer, and the way he combines anecdotes and songs in his solo piano/vocal performances is great fun to watch and listen to (effortlessly journeying from New Orleans to Alaska and back again in the course of one narrative on Friday night!). He is also deeply committed to the cause of Mongolian Jazz, bringing an energy to the task that certainly belies his eighty-something years.
Afterwards, onto Mealody for more late-night Jazz. This time only UBop performed, the Canadians feeling the strain of a hectic schedule and unavoidable jet-lag after their journey over from Calgary to Beijing to Ulaanbaatar. We were pretty tired too, so called it a night after a 40-minute set (which did, however, include some beautiful interplay, especially on a slow ballad rendition of Autumn Leaves, which featured a wonderful bass solo by Andrew).
Thurs October 5th 2006
The official launch of the festival. A multi-band gala concert at the State Opera & Ballet Theatre on Sukhbaatar Square. This was one of the highlights of the festival for me. Having the opportunity to perform in this impressive concert hall is something I never would have dreamt could happen prior to my introduction to Giant Steppes of Jazz NGO! The set list for the night’s performance had been worked out by Ganbat and me a week-or-so earlier, and it was pleasing to be able to see it put into action. First the Military Big Band, the NLQ, the NLQ with vocalist Deb Rassmussen, the UBop Band, the UBop Band with violinist Degi, the Baroque Trio (a great trio of Mongolian Jazz musicians playing a very tightly-rehearsed Bach arrangement by Jaques Loussier), the NLQ again, this time with three Mongolian vocalists (Undrah, Tsetse and Khulan), my special four piano arrangement of Jimmy Giuffre’s Four Brothers (performed by Bruce Petherick from NLQ, myself, Ganbat and one of my talented young piano students from the UB Jazz Academy, Purevsukh, alongside UBop’s Andrew Colwell on bass and NLQ’s Robin Tufts on drums), and finally Bob Bellows to bring the concert to an end in appropriate fashion with a rendition of Wonderful World, featuring most of the musicians from the concert. The concert clocked in at around two-and-a-half hours, no breaks, which in anyone’s book has got to be exceptional value for money.
Mealody again played host to a late-night jam session, but only after a surprise (to me at least!) celebratory meal in honour of the successful completion of the Opera Theatre concert. After some delicious food, there was an awards ceremony, with each of us getting a Giant Steppes Jazz Festival souvenir Ger (the traditional Mongolian tent) and the opportunity to thank those involved for their dedication and hard work. Bob Bellows also took the opportunity to present some Big Band arrangements to the Giant Steppes of Jazz NGO, for use by the Military Big Band and the Bayamongol Big Band. This is only the most recent of many donations from Bob to the repertoire of these two bands, and as always it was gratefully received.
Then, of course, we had a jam session. This provided my first opportunity to play alongside some of the NLQ, and, during a thoughtful and inventive short set of standards, we played an interesting slow tempo version of, what else but, Coltrane’s Giant Steps! I had meant to work out a special arrangement of this tune for the festival, but in the flurry of activity leading up to this week, it had completely slipped my mind. I think it should be on the agenda for the next festival though, maybe featuring traditional Mongolian musicians with the UBop Band. Will see what develops in the coming months.
Fri October 6th 2006
My only regret during the course of the festival is that I was unable to take part in the master class and performance at the University of Culture and Art, and the performance at the UBS Music Awards at the UB Palace, both of which I have been told were very successful events.
I was, however, able to be part of the evening concert at River Sounds Live Music Club. The first set featured a band led by Purevsukh, my piano student, which included a blistering take on Blue Bossa, with Purevsukh playing the best solo I have heard him play to date. Truly breathtaking and evidence that Mongolian Jazz is deserving of International recognition sooner rather than later! This was followed by a polished set by the NLQ with vocalists Deb Rassmussen, Khulan and Undrah. Next were the Baroque Trio and the UBop Band, with Bob Bellows once again closing proceedings in inimitable fashion. During our twenty-or-so minutes, we were able to play two of our arrangements of two popular Mongolian songs, Namuun Baigal and Setgelin Jiguur, both of which fit effortlessly into a Bossa Nova style. Mongolian audiences always respond enthusiastically to Mongolian songs, and this time was no exception. One of Ganbat’s schemes for introducing a wider Mongolian audience to Jazz is through arrangements of popular songs, and we now have half-a-dozen of these tunes in our repertoire list. My personal favourite is Halun Elgen, the first Mongolian song I learnt after transcribing it from off the stone tablet on Peace Avenue south of Sukhbaatar Square, where it currently resides. This beautiful melody fits nicely into a slow 6/4 swing with a minor blues feel. We usually end our Jazz Club performances with a rendition of my arrangement of this piece and I like to think of it as one of our ‘signature tunes’ (the other being my original tune, ‘The UBop Theme’, with which we begin each Friday’s performance).
Then on to Mealody for a later-than-usual start time for the Mealody Jazz Club, the UBop Band’s regular weekly session that began in June this year, after I contacted the ACM and ultimately Ganbat for help in setting up a Jazz night. The restaurant was packed with a mostly Mongolian audience, which was great to see, and the performances from the UBop Band, the NLQ and Bob Bellows, were all at the same high standard that they have been throughout the festival thus far. It was also great to see another healthy mix of Mongolians and foreigners enjoying having their ears stretched a little!
Sat October 7th 2006
A very special last-minute addition to the festival schedule was a visit to the Lotus Children’s Centre, a home for orphaned and abandoned children set up and run by an Australian woman, Didi, since the early 90’s. The Lotus Centre is a truly inspirational place, and we performed a short set of songs for the children in a bright and spacious hall, decorated with beautiful pictures and paintings by the children. They sang a few songs for us too, and joined in with Old MacDonald and other borderless classics, including an impromptu Mongolian song that fitted perfectly into a mid-tempo swing feel! Debra and the guys from the NLQ had bought some kites in Beijing prior to coming to Ulaanbaatar, and these were given to the children, along with some candy, which we all got the privilege of handing out. An emotional, uplifting experience which I hope we shall repeat many times as part of future festivals/events.
After leaving the centre, we had only one more concert before the end of the festival, a performance at Strings Night Club behind the White House Hotel. Since the UBop Band went on after the NLQ at River Sounds, it was only right that we started proceedings at Strings. Unfortunately all four pianists who played in this concert had to perform on a keyboard without weighted keys, requiring on-the-spot technique adjustments that could have been avoided if a digital piano (similar to the one at River Sounds, for example) had been used instead. It did, however, lead Bruce Petherick from the NLQ to include some lovely sounds in his performance, using strings, organ and other synthesizer-style colours. The NLQ also stretched the boundaries of the music at the festival by including a Free Jazz original, Chanting. This Petherick-penned piece was repeated later that evening at the last Mealody jam session, and I know I wasn’t the only person to count it as one of the highlights of the festival.
During the Strings concert, each band was awarded a certificate by the Ministry of Education, Culture and Science, “in recognition of your contribution to the successful organisation of 2nd International Giant Steppes Jazz Festival, and to the promotion and education of Jazz arts in Mongolia”. I have received many certificates in my music career thus far, including being made an Honorary Member of Birmingham Conservatoire (my old music college in the UK) earlier this year ‘in absentia’ due to the fact I was in Mongolia, but I rank this one alongside all the others, and it shall take its rightful pride of place as testament to all we have achieved so far in such a short period of time, with so many plans and aspirations for the future of Jazz in Mongolia.
At Mealody later that night, there was yet another award ceremony, this time with beautiful cashmere clothing being given to the members of the NLQ and the UBop Band. I myself received a gorgeous black cashmere sweater that I’ve already worn a couple of times. It was also a perfect opportunity for some of the members of both bands to thank the Giant Steppes of Jazz NGO for their hard work in organising the festival, and especially give our heartfelt thanks to Ganbat for the tireless energy and enthusiasm he brings to the task of establishing Mongolia as an International force in 21st Century Jazz.
Sun October 8th -
Mon October 9th 2006
Something that made the participants of this festival feel especially welcome was the professional way in which we were ferried between venues, hotels and apartments before and after performances. This was most apparent during the countryside trip that we took after the last concert. Three drivers carried members of the NLQ and the UBop Band, plus friends to experience some of the astounding natural beauty surrounding Ulaanbaatar. One particular highlight was our visit to Gachuurt and Hotel Mongolia, an impressive complex modelled on Kharkhorim, Mongolia’s ancient capital, with a ‘beach’ on the banks of the Tuul river. The site of the hotel used to belong to Ganbat, and here is where he originally built (his former trade was in construction) the Moonlight Jazz Club, the first of many giant steps leading Mongolian Jazz to the Giant Steppes of Jazz NGO and of course the festival and now the academy. We were also delighted to meet Ganbat’s mother, at the beautiful house he has built for her in Gachuurt, overlooking Hotel Mongolia.
Following this short stop, we ventured on to Terelj, and decided to stop at a ger camp in a lovely setting, nestled at the foot of some impressive rocky mountains, with a great view to boot. Here we were able to fully relax after the intensity of the festival, not to mention the preparations that went into it on both sides of the Pacific! After a delicious barbeque and a welcome amount of vodka and beer, we settled down in the cosy, candlelit interior of the biggest ger to tell stories and jokes, aided by the excellent translation ability of violinist Degi!
Most importantly, this countryside trip provided the opportunity for in-depth discussion as what the next ‘giant’ steps will be in the furtherance of the festival, NGO and academy. I’m not at liberty to disclose any of the plans we hatched that evening (although those of you present at the time know what I’m referring to!), but suffice to say if only half of what was discussed comes to fruition; the coming years are going to be extremely exciting for Jazz in Mongolia.
On our return to the city, there was time for one more performance at Mealody, at a special dinner in honour of Bob Bellows and his wife. Bob was the original ‘Jazz Ambassador’ to Mongolia, beginning his association with the country and with Ganbat in the mid-1990’s. After some lovely speeches from Bob, his wife, the director of the Philharmonic Orchestra and the director of the Music & Dance College, and despite being exhausted at the end of a week of Jazz (a bitterly cold night and lack of sleep in the gers at Terelj didn’t help either!), some great Jazz was played by two hybrid bands: myself and Andrew from the UBop Band with Robin Tufts from the NLQ, and Bruce Petherick and John Hyde from the NLQ with Ganbat.
Bob finished the night with a wonderful rendition of What Is This Thing Called Love, plus, amongst others, his ‘signature’ tune, What A Wonderful World. And it certainly is a wonderful Jazz world that Bob has helped create in Mongolia, alongside Ganbat, Debra Rasmussen, and most recently the Giant Steppes of Jazz NGO, the Northern Lights Quartet, the UBop Band and friends. Given the current global political situation and the perceived lack of harmony between many countries of the world, this ‘wonderful world’ of Mongolian Jazz that I am lucky enough to be part of, has many things to say regarding brotherhood and sisterhood, as does all true Jazz, and many people could learn much from the way musicians from different cultures and countries can come together and make one music, often without rehearsal or pre-discussion, and always, always, with the spirit of cooperation and the determination to produce something greater than the sum of its parts.
“Jazz music celebrates life – human life. The range of it. The absurdity of it. The ignorance of it. The greatness of it. The intelligence of it. The sexuality of it. The profundity of it. And it deals with it in all of its...it DEALS with it.”
Mon October 23rd 2006
There has also been a lot of TV coverage of the festival, although this has been seen mostly by our friends and not by myself or Hannah, since we seem to be inexplicably doomed to miss most of the footage! However, we mananged to see our performance at Strings on MNB TV (Mongolian National Broadcasting), and took a few photos and shot a little video footage off the TV screen. I will put the shots up on this site as soon as I get the chance. It was great to see the trio play, and even better that the TV channel chose to show one of my compositions, Erasmus, and Andrew's Khoomei singing. The Northern Lights Quartet where shown playing alongside vocalist Khulan, and also playing a Mongolian song. The Baroque trio also had a few minutes of airtime. Our slot was around 20 minutes, which is 19 minutes and 57 seconds longer than we'd get on UK TV.
Sat October 27th 2006
- Wynton Marsalis
Many exciting things have happened since the advent of the Jazz festival. Firstly, there's a new gig for myself and Andrew, at Le Bistro Francais on Surguuliin Gudamj, north of the Government House. This charming restaurant is owned by a French Jazz enthusiast, Guy, and during the Jazz festival I was approached by Guy who had the idea to have a Jazz night at Le Bistro, coupled with a champagne promotion. The piano at the restaurant was beyond repair and so Guy asked Ganbat to find a new one for me to use. I can't imagine a restaurant owner in the UK going to that much expense just to have live music in their venue. Ganbat found a Russian-made piano, called Red October, and we will have our first duo gig there on 28th October. There's also a new gig for the UBop Band every Tuesday night at the MB Live Club near Gandan Monastery, and I saw ourselves on TV the other night during a commercial for the club.
Sometime during last year, I discovered (on the internet) the JazzMandu Festival in Kathmandu, Nepal. I sent them an email about myself and my music, but heard nothing, which is pretty usual when there have been no formal introductions between artists and promoters. However, two of the audience members at Mealody for the last few sessions have a connection to the Nepalese festival. Phillipa and Jigme are over in Mongolia until the middle of November as a result of Phillipa's work, and have been starved of Jazz music since being here, so gravitated toward Mealody a few weeks back. Jigme's brother is one of the organisers of the festival, and has promised to put in a good word for me on his return. We have also talked about making a friendship between Giant Steppes Jazz Festival and JazzMandu, with a possible exchange of musicians in future festivals. You really and truly never know who is going to be in the audience at Mealody!